Way Up North - the Viking Earl Tour
Posted: Tuesday, 01 July 2008 |
Until the 1970s, the North of Scotland, Orkney & Shetland Steam Navigation Co’s steamer the Earl of Zetland sailed from Lerwick to the North Isles of Shetland – providing those islands main link with the Mainland. This was before the days of ro-ro ferries. I remember, in 1973, going on a day’s round trip – on Da Earl - from Lerwick to Symbister on Whalsay, to Mid Yell to Uyeasound on Unst. We berthed at Whalsay and Yell, but at Unst, a flit-boat came off to where we lay at anchor, bringing some Shetland ponies which were lifted, by derrick, on to the Earl.
Now, all of these islands are served by modern ro-ro ferries. These now provide the means by which passengers and goods come into the isles. On Sunday, though, the Shetland Amenity Trust and SIC Ferries organised a day trip from Toft, in the north of the Mainland. From here, onboard the ferry, the Daggri, we sailed along Yell Sound and up the east coast of Yell, past Burravoe, Aywick and Otterswick to Mid Yell – the ‘capital’ of Yell.
Coming in to Mid Yell
In 1973, the Earl dropped me and a friend off while we went to visit someone nearby. Engrossed in blethering, we didn’t notice the time and had to sprint back to the pier as the Earl turned into the voe. Fortunately, they heard us shouting and the skipper turned the boat back to come alongside and pick us up. This time we didn’t stop at the pier but turned around within Mid Yell Voe and headed back out.
Mid Yell Pier
Continuing north, past Hascosay, we came in close to Fetlar which was recovering from its Foy the day before. Two ferries were running a shuttle to take all the survivors away. Glastonbury has nothing on da Fetlar Foy (Come on Muness Views where’s the report on this!!).
Brough Lodge on Fetlar
Turning into Bluemull Sound between Yell and Unst, we sailed around to Lund on the west coast of Yell before turning around and continuing up the east coast to Baltasound. After our lunch, onboard provided by the crew, we got on a coach to head to Belmont in the south end of Unst. Felt strange coming to Unst as a ‘tourist’! Well I remember the days of Far North.
At Belmont is a Norse period longhouse that is being excavated by a team of Danish archaeologists. Thirty such Viking houses have been found in Unst so far. The builder of the house would have had quite a commanding view in either direction along Bluemull Sound, and across to Yell.
Norse longhouse at Belmont
Also at Belmont is Belmont House Рa fine example of a Georgian House which is in the process of being renovated by local craftsmen - to an astounding level of workmanship - windows, interior panels, windows, etc. When completed it will provide an art gallery and hostel accommodation. Much of the interior d̩cor had been untouched in 200 years!
Belmont House
Inside Belmont House - Mike Finnie and John Scott show how small the doors are
Part of the original staircase in Belmont House
Original fireplace in Belmont House
The renovated window in the Venetian parlour
The superb wood panelling in one of the Pavilions
Over to the west side of Unst, brought us to Underhoull, near Lund. Hear archaeologists from Bradford University are excavating another Viking longhouse. Great catching up with some of the same team of diggers that I knew from Scatness when I worked as a guide of the Iron Age village there.
The excavations at Underhoull
Archaeologists at Underhoull
Looking to Vallafield
The excavataions at Underhoull, Belmont - and at Hamar - are part of the Viking Unst Project. This project is the only project in Scotland to have reached the semi-finals of the National Lottery Awards 2008 - with a chance to win a £2000 grant and and to appear on a special TV programme. This is all dependent on public voting and the closing date is midday on Friday, 4 July. The link to vote is .
After spending more time than we intended it was back to Baltasound.
Leaving Baltasound
By now, the weather was beautiful and it was down the east side of Fetlar, catching some rays time on the way back to Toft. No sign of Muness Views on Fetlar - nor Ruthodanort on Unst.
Houbie on Fetlar - the school is the building on the left.
Off of Tresta, Fetlar - here there is the most beautiful beach backed by a shallow loch.
Fishing boat off of Fetlar
Fellow travellers in the reflections on the ferry's bridge windows
Heading south again
Now, all of these islands are served by modern ro-ro ferries. These now provide the means by which passengers and goods come into the isles. On Sunday, though, the Shetland Amenity Trust and SIC Ferries organised a day trip from Toft, in the north of the Mainland. From here, onboard the ferry, the Daggri, we sailed along Yell Sound and up the east coast of Yell, past Burravoe, Aywick and Otterswick to Mid Yell – the ‘capital’ of Yell.
Coming in to Mid Yell
In 1973, the Earl dropped me and a friend off while we went to visit someone nearby. Engrossed in blethering, we didn’t notice the time and had to sprint back to the pier as the Earl turned into the voe. Fortunately, they heard us shouting and the skipper turned the boat back to come alongside and pick us up. This time we didn’t stop at the pier but turned around within Mid Yell Voe and headed back out.
Mid Yell Pier
Continuing north, past Hascosay, we came in close to Fetlar which was recovering from its Foy the day before. Two ferries were running a shuttle to take all the survivors away. Glastonbury has nothing on da Fetlar Foy (Come on Muness Views where’s the report on this!!).
Brough Lodge on Fetlar
Turning into Bluemull Sound between Yell and Unst, we sailed around to Lund on the west coast of Yell before turning around and continuing up the east coast to Baltasound. After our lunch, onboard provided by the crew, we got on a coach to head to Belmont in the south end of Unst. Felt strange coming to Unst as a ‘tourist’! Well I remember the days of Far North.
At Belmont is a Norse period longhouse that is being excavated by a team of Danish archaeologists. Thirty such Viking houses have been found in Unst so far. The builder of the house would have had quite a commanding view in either direction along Bluemull Sound, and across to Yell.
Norse longhouse at Belmont
Also at Belmont is Belmont House Рa fine example of a Georgian House which is in the process of being renovated by local craftsmen - to an astounding level of workmanship - windows, interior panels, windows, etc. When completed it will provide an art gallery and hostel accommodation. Much of the interior d̩cor had been untouched in 200 years!
Belmont House
Inside Belmont House - Mike Finnie and John Scott show how small the doors are
Part of the original staircase in Belmont House
Original fireplace in Belmont House
The renovated window in the Venetian parlour
The superb wood panelling in one of the Pavilions
Over to the west side of Unst, brought us to Underhoull, near Lund. Hear archaeologists from Bradford University are excavating another Viking longhouse. Great catching up with some of the same team of diggers that I knew from Scatness when I worked as a guide of the Iron Age village there.
The excavations at Underhoull
Archaeologists at Underhoull
Looking to Vallafield
The excavataions at Underhoull, Belmont - and at Hamar - are part of the Viking Unst Project. This project is the only project in Scotland to have reached the semi-finals of the National Lottery Awards 2008 - with a chance to win a £2000 grant and and to appear on a special TV programme. This is all dependent on public voting and the closing date is midday on Friday, 4 July. The link to vote is .
After spending more time than we intended it was back to Baltasound.
Leaving Baltasound
By now, the weather was beautiful and it was down the east side of Fetlar, catching some rays time on the way back to Toft. No sign of Muness Views on Fetlar - nor Ruthodanort on Unst.
Houbie on Fetlar - the school is the building on the left.
Off of Tresta, Fetlar - here there is the most beautiful beach backed by a shallow loch.
Fishing boat off of Fetlar
Fellow travellers in the reflections on the ferry's bridge windows
Heading south again
RSS Feed