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Method

1. Combine all the marinade ingredients in a bowl, add the aubergine and toss to coat well. Set aside to marinate for 30 minutes.

2. For the fried onions, heat the vegetable oil in a sturdy pan over a medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the onions and fry for 10–15 minutes or until deep golden-brown, then add the garam masala and cumin. Remove the onions with a slotted spoon and set aside to drain on kitchen paper.

3. For the biryani, pour off all but about 3 tablespoons of the oil from the pan into a jug to use another time. Add the whole spices to the pan and fry for a minute. Add the aubergine and all the marinade, then bring to a simmer and stir in the tomatoes and a teaspoon salt. Simmer over a medium heat for 15 minutes until the aubergine is tender and the sauce is clinging to it.

4. Stir in the baby spinach leaves – add a splash of water to the pan if the spinach catches on the bottom – and cook for a few more minutes until wilted. It’s important the sauce is almost dry by this stage and just coating the aubergine. Keep it warm over a low heat while you cook the rice.

5. Bring a large pan of water to the boil and add salt (1 teaspoon per litre of water). Tip the rice into the water and cook for 5–7 minutes until just tender, but still firm, then drain well. Test that the rice is cooked by squeezing a grain between your fingers – it should be soft and break up at the edges but stay firm in the middle.

6. Assemble the biryani straight away while the rice is still hot. First pour about 3 tablespoons water and half the ghee into a deep, heavy-based cooking pot or a flameproof casserole. Spoon in a third of the rice, then a third of the onions and half of the aubergine. Sprinkle in some saffron milk and a little rosewater (if using), a few pistachios and a few cashew nuts. Then spoon in another third of rice, another third of onions, the rest of the aubergine, more saffron milk and rosewater (if using) and a few more nuts (save some to garnish). Finally, add the rest of the rice, saffron milk and rosewater (if using) and most of the remaining onions.

7. For the raita, scoop out the seeds from the cucumber using a teaspoon, then grate the flesh. Toss the cucumber with the salt, tip into a sieve and leave to drain for 20–30 minutes.

8. Drizzle the remaining ghee around the edges of the rice so it drips down the inside of the pan. Cover with a well-fitting lid. Put over a high heat to get the ghee hot and some steam going – lift up the lid to check. As soon as you see steam rising, turn down to a very low heat and cook for 30 minutes.

9. To finish the raita, mix the drained cucumber with all the remaining raita ingredients. Taste and add a little extra salt, pepper or lime juice, if you like. Set aside.

10. Spoon the biryani out onto a large serving platter and scatter with the remaining crisp onions and toasted cashews and pistachios. Serve with the raita.