91热爆

Saturday 25 October 2008

There's this break called 'Leftovers', I really like it, well I used to, now I'm not sure I would go in there if I was paid. Maybe if it was like 2-3ft I would. At a push though!

It's a really sharp rocky bottom, known for being one of the top three 'sharkiest' spots on the north shore. (Draw blood and your a goner sort of thing).

Everything was kind of cool, we had all paddled out. It was pretty solid, but there was a massive channel听to paddle to if a set came through. So, I was pretty happy with it and was ready to try and catch a couple of waves now I'd got the hang of where they were coming in.

However five minutes later I noticed a wave just peaking a long way out the back so I thought I should probably start paddling pretty fast out back further than I was.

Hawaii - holiday and surfing paradise

Suddenly there was a headhigh mountain of white water and me and Beth were a metre away from it. The first one was fine, the second wasn't so great but the third was slightly weird as I dived under, it shoved me right to the floor and I held on so tight to my board thinking it would just pop me back up. Instead it did something that felt so weird then popped out of my hands.

I came up after what seemed like ages to see my board in two and another pretty massive wave coming towards me again. Slightly panicking now! I shouted to Beth to see if she could help me in.

I could feel my asthma going and my chest tightening up from all the water and shortage of breath. I didn't get in a whole breath between the next three or four waves.

Eventually we all got in and went home to grab my inhaler. A pretty solid day it was.听听听听Thanks Beth for helping me, you legend.

They say that's when all the sharks come out, so yeah it's been a pretty funny day.
Later on we're going to go to the cinema. I'm not sure what we're going to watch. Anything but SAW 5 I am hoping!

It has rained all day today. I am going to vote for George as surfer of the day today. He surfed really well at Leftovers and also took some pretty nice drops this morning at V-Land.