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Two thirds of Azerbaijan is rich in oil and gas and the oil boom of the last ten years has generated dazzling economic development, with the capital Baku filled with expensive cars and designer shops. The ruling elite has done well but critics say that corruption and state monopolies have made it almost impossible for many others to benefit. So what is life really like for ordinary Azeris? We find out more about what is happening in this small but highly significant former soviet state?