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This surprising grand tour follows the river Ythan in rural Aberdeenshire, which flows through a landscape of wheat fields and haunted castles and on to a coast rich in wildlife. On the way, Paul Murton learns how to make a haystack, speak the local 'Doric' and has a ghostly encounter with a woman in Fyvie Castle. He visits Gight Castle, the ruined home of poet Lord Byron鈥檚 family. Journey鈥檚 end is at the mouth of the river, where sand dunes have created Scotland鈥檚 version of the Sahara.