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Clutching his 1899 Appleton鈥檚 Guide, Michael Portillo boards one of the world鈥檚 most famous trains, the Rocky Mountaineer, to cross the backbone of the North American continent from Kamloops to the spa resort of Banff. This magnificent journey takes him to the highest point of the 19th-century transcontinental Canadian Pacific Railway line at Kicking Horse Pass, past Lake Louise and inside spiral tunnels blasted through the mountains.

Along the way, Michael hears of the harsh and dangerous conditions endured by the Chinese and European labourers who built the railway. He looks back at the historic driving of the Last Spike, which completed the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1885.

Reaching Banff, Michael follows his Appleton鈥檚 guide to the luxurious Banff Spring Hotel, built by the railway company. By Sulphur Mountain, he explores an underground hot spring discovered by railway workers in 1883 and learns how it prompted the creation of Canada鈥檚 first national park.

In Calgary, Alberta, Michael saddles up with the Royal Canadian Mounted Police, hears about their origins and learns about their role today.

He tastes life as a ranch hand at Bar U Ranch, where the cattle business boomed after the arrival of the transcontinental railway in 1885. New markets led to fame worldwide, prompting a surprise royal visit from Britain in 1919 by Edward, Prince of Wales.

Riding the 'C' train, Michael heads downtown to the Calgary Petroleum Club to hear about the first oil strike in Western Canada and the prosperity the city has enjoyed since. It is festival time, and Michael is introduced to a Calgary delicacy - the prairie oyster.

The city鈥檚 Ukrainian community is the second largest outside the Ukraine and keeps its culture alive. Michael rashly accepts an invitation to dance the hopak.