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HARDtalk is on the road in Kazakhstan, a vast country which was for years a remote outpost of the Soviet empire. It is now a crossroad linking China, Russia and Europe far to the west. Kazakhstan has been transformed by oil wealth. But while Central Asia's biggest economy is gearing for change, many who demand political freedoms and human rights are systematically silenced. Will political reform follow in a country whose leader, Nursultan Nazarbayev, has been in power for 27 years and wins elections with 97% of the vote?