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Michael Portillo embarks on a glorious action-packed adventure from the Italian Riviera to the Austrian Alps with his Bradshaw's 1913 Continental Guidebook in hand. Along the way, our man of the match discovers how an Edwardian Briton brought 'the beautiful game' to the historic port of Genoa. Michael is ambushed by singers of the city's legendary trallalero and learns to whip up a mean pesto Genovese.

After sampling la dolce vita in Portofino, Michael takes the train as it clings to the cliffs along the Riviera Di Levanti to reach the impossibly picturesque and remote villages of the Cinque Terre, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a national park. A fishing trip in the bay affords spectacular views of the villages from the water.