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Analysis, observation, writing, storytelling. In this edition, the smells of a city's chequered history are resurrected in a shop in Serbia's capital, Belgrade. From inside Syria, the tactics a new force is employing to take the fight to the militants of IS. Aung San Suu Kyi's new government in Myanmar should soon be sworn in after its historic election victory -- but there are tough challenges ahead. All change in Poland too -- but why's the electorate there turned its back on an administration which provided new roads, airport terminals and jobs? And we're inside a beauty salon in Kabul turning down advice on a new coiffure and learning instead what sort of future Afghans think lies in store for their nation.