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Retinol can boost collagen function to help keep skin firm and smooth

What's so great about the much-touted retinol that so many brands promise will restore your skin? Retinol is an umbrella term for a group of similar molecules called retinoids, which are synthetic forms of Vitamin A. They help to stimulate collagen production by stimulating fibroblasts – cells responsible for making the connective tissue that comprises your skin. Topical retinoids are fantastic – they make your skin brighter and healthier by increasing natural exfoliation, unblocking pores and even changing pigments.

Here's the catch though – not all retinoids are made equal. Retinoids have to be converted by your body into their active form, called retinoic acid, and different retinoids take more steps to get there. Emma Wedgewood – an old friend of the show who appeared in the very first episode of Sliced Bread on collagen – explains that how efficient a retinoid is “depends on how many steps it takes to get converted to [retinoic acid]”.

Clinical-grade retinoids that require prescriptions have the strongest effect, being 10 to 20 times stronger when compared to over-the-counter medications.

Retinoids need to be used carefully and gradually

Given the sheer number of retinoids with similar-sounding names, it's helpful to know which are the best and what concentrations you need to look for. Retinyl retinoate is one of the ‘new generation’ retinoids. It's the closest you can get to prescription grade retinoids without a prescription, and it's thought to be better tolerated by your skin than many other retinoids, but the research is lacking.

If you're going for the classic retinol, just be careful. Emma recommends starting at a lower concentration, since your body needs time to adapt, saying: “We're trying to change the way our cells work. You don't just run a marathon straight away; you build up to it slowly.”

Additionally, you shouldn't use retinol-containing products before going into the sun. Retinoids are broken down in sunlight, making them less effective if used in the morning. More pressingly though, retinoids actually make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Combine this with the natural breakdown of collagen by UV radiation, and you’ll be doing your skin more harm than good.

Hyaluronic acid, ceramides and niacinamide are crucial secondary ingredients

Skin creams have a number of commonly advertised complementary ingredients, but which of these are helpful?

Hyaluronic acid is included in skin creams as a humectant – a compound that helps to draw moisture in. It's brilliant if you live in humid areas, but if the air is dry – like the UK in the dead of winter – then its impact is reduced. Similarly, lipids known as ceramides help with your skin's moisture, but they do so by retaining moisture. This makes them useful regardless of the environment you’re in.

You may not have heard of niacinamide, but it's essentially an alternate form of Vitamin B3. As such, it does wonders for your body. As Emma puts it: “Niacinamide is quite a superstar at multitasking.” It boosts the production of ceramides, regulates pigmentation, controls oil production and even acts as an antioxidant.

Vitamin C skincare products are often touted as an alternative to traditional skincare products. If used at the right strength, they can indeed boost collagen production and protect against foreign pollutants, making them very powerful. Emma advises consumers to look at the pure ascorbic acid content of the product – between 10-20% is best – and make sure the Vitamin C product is stored in a dark bottle to prevent it from being degraded by sunlight.

In summary, all of these secondary ingredients are proven effective compounds for skin care when used under the right circumstances and in the right concentrations.

Clinical study promises aren't guarantees for skincare

That word ‘proven’, however, comes with a big asterisk. Cosmetic products are not put through the same rigorous testing that medicines are, meaning the results from their trials are less dependable. The reality is that brands will settle for a low-cost clinical trial if it has the same trust-building effect in their marketing. As such, many of the new-wave skincare products aren’t yet proven.

Cosmetic products are not put through the same rigorous testing that medicines are, meaning the results from their trials are less dependable.

One interesting new development, however, are peptides. Peptides are the building blocks of collagen, and dermatologists have long struggled to get these large proteins through the skin barrier.

As of 2019, there were no such peptides. But recently, Emma personally worked with a committee of dermatologists at The University of Manchester to examine novel peptides that can absorb into the skin. The American Academy of Dermatology was even able to prove this absorption, albeit in vitro. Peptide-based skincare is definitely a possibility for the near-future.

More expensive lotions feel nicer on the skin… but that's about it

One brand is trying to convince us that the future of skincare is here now. Estée Lauder's Crème de la Mer is one of the most expensive skincare products on the market, with just 15 millilitres costing a whopping £80. For comparison, a typical Boots face cream would cost just 1% of that for the same volume. Estée Lauder touts the product as a 'youth renewing miracle broth', among a litany of other gilded acronyms promoting Crème de la Mer’s game-changing efficacy. But does the product stand up under scrutiny?

Emma explains that since they've patented the active molecule, it's hard for an outside observer to judge the efficacy of the cream. Trials from Estée Lauder's own team show that 90% of users reported feeling calmed and soothed, with fewer lines and wrinkles. Emma does admit that her own patients particularly enjoy the feeling of the cream on their skin. But as for the actual health benefits, Crème de la Mer seems only as effective as cheaper creams on the market.

Emma's opinion is that “there is not a good correlation between price and quality of your skincare”. Keep it simple and stay within your budget, unless beauty products are what you like to splurge on.

To hear more about the most cost-effective skincare routines, listen to the episode in full on 91热爆 Sounds.

The information contained in this article was correct at the time of broadcast on 8 February, 2024.