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Method

1. To make the dough, start by making the tangzhong. Combine the milk and 40g/1½oz of the strong flour in a saucepan. Stir continuously over a low–medium heat for a few minutes until it starts to form a thick paste. Use a hand-held whisk to remove any lumps.

2. Once the mixture has thickened, remove from the heat and transfer to a heatproof container. Place a piece of baking paper directly on top of the mixture and leave to cool to room temperature. Chill in the fridge until cold. You can do this a day ahead or a few hours before.

3. To make the raisin mixture, place the raisins in a heatproof bowl. Brew the tea bags with approximately 250ml/9fl oz boiling water. Strain the brewed hot tea over the raisins, add the cinnamon stick and leave for 1 hour. Strain the raisins, discarding the soaking liquid and cinnamon stick.

4. To continue making the dough, mix together the remaining strong flour, salt and caster sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer and combine well. Add the yeast and stir. Add the cold tangzhong mixture and the eggs and mix with a dough hook until combined. Continue to mix on a medium–high speed for 10–15 minutes, occasionally scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. By this stage, it should be elastic and dough-like.

5. Add the butter and mix for a further 10 minutes until the butter is incorporated and the dough is shiny and elastic. Cover the bowl loosely with a clean tea towel and leave to relax for 20 minutes.

6. Add the strained raisins, the mixed peel (if using), lemon zest and ground spices to the dough. Mix well for 10 minutes on a medium speed until the dough is smooth and elastic. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. The dough and ingredients should hold together. If not, mix for longer and increase the speed to bring it together.

7. Oil a large bowl well. Transfer the dough to the oiled bowl and leave to prove at room temperature for 2 hours or until doubled in size.

8. Line the baking tray with baking paper and lightly dust your hands and work surface with flour. Divide the dough into 12 pieces (each dough ball will weigh about 70g/2½oz). Shape each portion into a ball and place on the baking tray, lining them up so they are next to each other in three rows of four. They shouldn't be tightly touching but it is ok if they are close together. Cover with a tea towel and leave to prove in a warm place for 30–60 minutes or until they are soft, springy and puffy.

9. Preheat the oven to 190C/170C Fan/Gas 5.

10. To make the crosses, combine the flour, icing sugar and milk in a small bowl to make a smooth paste. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a small plain nozzle. Pipe a cross on the top of each bun.

11. Bake for 15 minutes, then turn the tray and bake for another 15 minutes, until the buns are evenly golden and shiny on top.

12. Remove from the oven and leave to cool slightly before brushing the buns with the apricot jam to glaze. If the apricot jam is still quite thick, microwave it briefly until it loosens up. Transfer the buns to a wire rack to cool completely.

13. Split and served toasted or untoasted, on their own or with some butter.