91热爆

Day 4

Ok, so the swell forecast doesn't always turn out the way it says it will, and today was one of those days! With a still small swell to deal with we woke up at 6.30am for a stretching session before having breakfast then a drive around to see which breaks would be our best option.听

We stopped at a break called Ballina and got straight in there where there was nobody but us on a pretty perfect 3ft peak in the sunshine. Following a pie at the Lennox Head Bakery we jumped in just South of Ballina at a pretty sharky looking break that we don't know the name of to be honest. It was sick though, only 3ft or so but pretty heavy and peaky with a few super fun sections to be hit.

Tassy Swallow from St Ives

We voted Paddy 'Surfer of the Day' over dinner this evening because we all thought he really reached his goal on the drill session this morning.

Day 5

You dream about coming to Australia and surfing epic waves on perfect banks with nobody out surfing but you. It would be nice if it was sunny too, no wind or rip to catch you out either. You can imagine. That's what we had today.

As it was a Tuesday morning there's only a few lucky people who don't have work or school to attend and fortunately we were amongst those lucky ones. We surfed these epic left and right handers for two hours, doing drills with Joel who filmed us from the beach in the sunshine.

After one of my most beneficial training sessions ever at that empty bank we headed to the bakery for an afternoon pie and smoothie before getting in again at Tallow's which wasn't so good... still fun though.听We're going to the cinema tonight to watch 'The Hangover', I'm told it's pretty good.