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Friday 6 June 2008

We have been at the surf break on the Balian river mouth, staying with Mr Oble the owner of Balian Segara for a week now. It has been a real pleasure to be here.

We have had several trips out to places including Internet at Shankari’s yoga retreat and Medewi to check out the surf break there. Our confidence in Gavin's driving skills and my orientation and finding our way home has increased considerably since our trip up. So our dear host Mr Oble kindly told Gavin that the panorama in Pupuan is well worth a visit. Mr Oble's English is not great and our Indonesian, although improving, leaves little to be admired.

Welcoming cold water of the waterfall

With that in mind we set off in search of views and photo opportunities. The road, once you are headed inland, is a twisting journey creeping up the side of the second highest mountain in Bali. It's lush green sides are forested and are broken only by dotted villages and rice fields.

We were taken aback by the care and attention given to the countryside by the people who live here. The roadside verges are so neat and well cared for, trimmed and planted. We arrived in Pupuan not really knowing what we were looking for and it took several trips back and forth along the road before we spotted a sign saying waterfall.

We turned into the road that was indicated by the sign and were unsure what to do next - the Suzuki is a small car but even that would only just fit in the narrow lane (Gang as they are called here) but there was nowhere to park on the road so we could only assume it was possible to drive. After going a short distance and attracting the bemused attention of some young locals, we were approached by a women who asked if we were visiting the waterfall 'did we know the way' or 'did we have a map' the answer to both questions was no. She advised us that if we were to find the waterfall we would need a guide.

The Holcroft's guide on their walk

I felt Gavin beside me and I tensed at the thought of having to spend a quiet family afternoon in the company of strangers. I looked at the young women who was obviously pregnant and carrying a young child on her hip and asked who would take us and she said it would be her. I asked her how much it would cost and she smiled and said - nothing but if you would like to give some thing after then you can give what you think it is worth.

With my confidence increasing and a positive feeling I got out of the car and climbed into the back asking her to take the front seat with her daughter. I am so glad we took the woman up on her offer as we would never have found the waterfall alone. She directed Gavin along a small track we would have been too nervous to take the car if we were alone. With very good English she encouraged us to drive until we could go no further and then we got out and walked the rest of the way.

The path was tidy and easy to follow but it twisted and split off several times. The views were amazing, in the distance we could see forested mountains and as we followed we walked through woods that had been cut back to allow the growing and harvesting of local Bali coffee and beautiful terraces of rice fields.

Coffee Beans near the Pupuan Waterfall

One of the things that surprised us most was the care and artistry involved with the farming. Even the fences were intricate works of art, young trees planted along the pathways with thin branches woven between them to indicate boundaries and paths.

The walk took us about 30 minutes and it was fairly taxing as it was often up hill. When we arrived we were thrilled with the waterfall, it was a massive cascade of water falling about 50/60 meters into a small pool. The water was icy cold and very refreshing. We all put our feet into the water to enjoy the coldness. We ate chocolate biscuits and shared them with our two new friends.

On the way back I felt a huge beam of happiness and good fortune. I am so glad we went with it and trusted this lovely lady and her little daughter to take us on this short journey into the Balian country side. Getting the car back out of the track was a little harder than going in…. we held our breaths a few times as Gavin had to rapidly accelerate a car with a very small engine and almost no suspension up some very steep and bumpy slopes.

I made some nervous jokes about baby milk shake as our poor guide was bounced around the car on the uneven surface but all was fine and we made it back to her house and the road.

We gave her 50000Rp which is only about two pounds fifty. It seemed such a small amount for such a great afternoon, but our new friend was very pleased and thanked us enthusiastically as money has a different value depending on where you live and what you can earn. We headed back to Mr Oble with a camera full of great photos and the memories of another really special day...