One night at Gleason's
I don't know what , that great chronicler of the underworld, would have made of the city today. I'm not sure he was a frappucino kind of guy.
But he might still recognise - one of the few surviving icons of New York boxing's "Golden Age" - if not its clientele.
There were no Good Time Charleys or Dave the Dudes in Gleason's on Wednesday night, although there was a Kevin the Insurance Broker working the mitts with frightening purpose.
"It's unbelievable to think all these great fighters trained here, and now I'm training here too," said Kevin between spurts.
"The place reeks of history. I just hope some of it rubs off on me."
The old guy with the mitts on flicked his eyes towards me and smiled an almost imperceptible smile. Of course none of it has rubbed off on him. But at least he's game enough to lace 'em up.
It is thought that 121 world champions have trained at Gleason's down the years, with , and among them.
, became the gym's first world champion when he claimed the middleweight crown in 1949, while - then Cassius Clay - used the facilities ahead of his first fight with .
When the gym first opened its doors in 1937, it is estimated more than 1,000 men earned at least a portion of their living from boxing in New York.
By 1952, that figure was down to 240, and , perhaps the greatest writer on boxing that ever lived, considered that he was covering a sport in decline as far back as the middle of that decade.
As Liebling put it: "There exist certain generalised conditions today, like full employment and a late school leaving age, that militate against the development of first-rate professional boxers". In other words, people got rich.
Over time, the small boxing clubs have closed down, while as few as 10 boxing gyms remain across the .
But while others were resistant to change and therefore perished - "the golden age of prizefighting was the age of bad food, bad air, bad sanitation and bad sunlight," of the legendary has been quoted as saying - Gleason's adapted.
In 1988, the gym started putting on white collar boxing shows and the dentists, brokers and college graduates began training alongside seasoned pros in the musty old venue a block from the , almost directly beneath .
"The white collar person has found out that boxing training is a great way to work out and has tremendous benefits," says owner .
"If it weren't for the white collar men and women, Gleason's would be a much smaller gym - or non-existent."
Among the gym's pros is , the former light-welterweight and welterweight champion, who fights on the -Roy Jones undercard at on Saturday.
But around 70% of the members are of the white collar variety, including Jimmy the Nurse, who's been frequenting Gleason's for the last five years.
"In no other sport can you train alongside the pros," explains Jimmy, between making the heavy bag gasp and hiss with booming lefts and rights.
"Imagine practising your putting next to - this is what it's like at Gleason's.
"It's a little bit of paradise among all the gentrification. In New York today it's like nothing's real any more, except between these four walls."
Despite his pessimism, Liebling also noted that "the desire to punch other boys on the nose will survive in our culture... boxing is an art of the people, like making love". And the modern-day Gleason's proves him right.
What he couldn't have foreseen was waterfront delis hawking $5 bottles of orange juice. Dave the Dude would have probably nailed the shop owner with a right hand to the kisser...
The final head-to-head between Calzaghe and Jones on Wednesday was another orgy of mutual respect, although for the first time this week there was at least a sense of big-fight buzz.
But with both fighters pulling their punches, it was left to Calzaghe's father and trainer to inject a bit of needle into proceedings, telling Jones his son was going to "kick his ass" and strafing the media with some seriously fruity language.
Enzo is both a boxing journalist's Godsend and nightmare. A Godsend because he always manages to lighten the mood with a few choice quotes, a nightmare because you're never able to use any of them.
Still, at least I'm just about able to understand him. The editors of the poor American boxing writers could be forgiven for thinking Enzo is deaf, dumb and mute.
PS: I'm not sure who else is in town for Saturday's fight, but I did see Calzaghe's fellow Welshman Maggot from rap collective in a Chinese restaurant last night. He asked if they had chips. Where does he think he is, ?
PPS: Conversation on an adjacent table in the same Chinese restaurant: "Apparently thought was a country." "Jeez, if she'd have got in, we'd have probably ended up declaring war on it..."
Hello. I have been working for the 91Èȱ¬ for more than a decade now and cover almost all sports. It would be good to hear from you - just don't be nasty or my mum might get upset.
Here are 
Comment number 1.
At 6th Nov 2008, candystripe-oakleaf wrote:Gleason's sounds more like pretentous theme park where rich people go rather than a boxing gym . It has sold out!
Jones to win the battle of the old men.
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Comment number 2.
At 6th Nov 2008, Matt wrote:Any plans for before and after the fight? I get in at lunchtime on Saturday, wondering if there is anything organised for the brits coming over?
Cheers,
Matt
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Comment number 3.
At 6th Nov 2008, mcloughp wrote:What a terrible waste of taxpayers' money!
Pure beano for a fight that's on Setanta Sport and covered superbly by Radio Five Live for any others of the British public interested.
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Comment number 4.
At 6th Nov 2008, callcentremunkey wrote:How the hell did Ben Dirs get a job as a boxing journalist? Once again, we'll no doubt be treated to article after article of name dropping gumf and who he has "bumped into" at the license fee payers expense.
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Comment number 5.
At 6th Nov 2008, TheRealStevieG wrote:Wow that's unusual, someone complaining about the 0.0003p from each of our licence fees that's gone to sending Ben Dirs to New York to cover the fight. Every time someone from the 91Èȱ¬ posts a blog from some far-flung place the Guardianistas get ugly. Now I would love Ben's job, love it, but the fact that he has got it and not me is not going to get me on my high horse about the licence fee.
Or is it......
I rate the work that Ben does and I think he is a very worthy contributor. I also think that the 91Èȱ¬ as a whole gives me a brilliant return for my £11 a month licence fee. Ok not all of it is to my taste but how could it possibly be? And compare what the 91Èȱ¬ serve up for £11 a month with the tripe that I pay Sky £40-odd a month for.....now that really is cause for complaint. And I would, if it wasn't for the fact that the wife loves most of the trash they broadcast and would leave me! Hmmmm, on second thoughts......
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Comment number 6.
At 6th Nov 2008, saudioak wrote:i agree with #5, ben is a lucky guy to have the job he has, but i think he is great with it, what are you lookin for him to say!?! keep it up ben, lookin forward to the build up to the fight.
so what do you guys reckon then? joe to take it in a final farewell or jone jr to spoil the party. i reckon a close one, shame its on setanta really but what can ya do right!
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Comment number 7.
At 6th Nov 2008, TheRealStevieG wrote:Setanta have spolied the party a few times recently haven't they what with some of the footie and the golf too. I ain't paying any more money to watch telly so I will have to grin and bear it.
Joe edging it on points, his superior stamina should win the day for him but it'll be tough
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Comment number 8.
At 6th Nov 2008, _Enygma_ wrote:Nice article Ben. Fingers crossed Joe delivers on Saturday.
Sad to see people embittered with envy about other people's jobs. Why not try and get a job you want yourself rather than making inane comments about the licence fee.
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Comment number 9.
At 6th Nov 2008, Hitcho wrote:callcentremunkey wrote: "How the hell did Ben Dirs get a job as a boxing journalist?"
Ah, but you see the beauty of Dirs is that he's not just a boxing journo. He's also a very capable rugby and cricket journo, among other sports. If you've not spent some godforsaken hours with Dirs on a Test match live text update, then your life is much the poorer for it.
Ben - surely you can talk Calzaghe into giving you a one-on-one interview before or after his last fight. It is the 91Èȱ¬ after all, the man must have some compassion...
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Comment number 10.
At 6th Nov 2008, bendirs wrote:Righto, thanks for the comments. Sorry people seem to think I'm a waste of license payers' money, but maybe if they had a look around the boxing index they would see that I've done a little bit more than just mince about in Gleason's Gym for a couple of hours. So far I've knocked out a Roy Jones profile, a feature with a nod to Obama, a news story on the final presser and a news story with quotes from both trainers (which will be on the site in a bit) - and I've been here just over 24 hours. Although I say so myself, that's not bad for someone with jetlag...
callcentremunkey - It's amazing who you bump into at these boxing matches: boxers, trainers, promoters. Sorry if you think their chat is inane. Also, in answer to your question, how did I become a boxing journalist, it was quite simple really. I did a journalism course, got a job at the 91Èȱ¬ and started writing about a sport love. I've been doing it on the site for about six years now...
As for who I think is going to win it, I'd have to agree that my gut instinct is Joe. Have a look at Jones' fights against Tarver and Johnson. It's all very well him saying he's going to counter with quick hands, but he looks very uncomfortable against fighters who rush in against him. I see it being Calzaghe on points.
Right, must dash, got an eight-course meal to attend at Gordon Ramsay's restaurant... not really, I'll be in my 1970s hotel writing a final pre-fight preview for the next five hours...
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Comment number 11.
At 6th Nov 2008, lee fett wrote:Haha great comeback Dirsy and top article as always. As usual there's the few wind-up merchants trying to tell the world how wonderful they'd be as a sports journalist! Why so bitter callcentremunkey, did the Beeb turn you down when you went for a job as the tea boy!?!?
Can't wait for this fight to get going now. I don't think its going to be a classic but hopefully it will cement Joe's legacy as a great of his generation. Note i'm not saying he's been the greatest but he's certainly got a good argument for being up there with the best pound-for-pound fighters of the last 15 years. Yes he hasn't had the amount of big fights that really he should have but there's no denying he's a class act.
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Comment number 12.
At 6th Nov 2008, lee fett wrote:Forgot to even put my prediction down! Calzaghe to take a points win by 2 or 3 rounds.
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Comment number 13.
At 6th Nov 2008, Jimbo wrote:candystripe-oakleaf, I have to disagree that 'Gleason's sounds more like pretentous theme park' - it doesn't sound like its pretending to be anything it isn't.
Nice blog, I usually find myself regretting reading them straight after I have uncontrollably (especially the comments). You've made me really curious to see some footage of enzo talking...
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Comment number 14.
At 6th Nov 2008, robowv wrote:"to think I've wasted my blah blah blah..."
DON'T READ IT THEN.
Gleason's sounds like it has simply moved with the times in order to survive, and clearly it has done well to do so.
Saturday is a meaty day for sport, what with the Rugby and this. Can't wait.
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Comment number 15.
At 7th Nov 2008, Spaced Invader wrote:callcentremunkey wrote: "How the hell did Ben Dirs get a job as a boxing journalist?"
Oh the jealousy and bitterness is deep in you isn't? Personally I don't want a blog by a journalist who has purely focused on one sport their entire life - they eventually lose perspective and become overly nostalgic as they age. The 91Èȱ¬'s blogs are - 90% of the time - excellent, including Ben Dirs. Thanks for the article.
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Comment number 16.
At 7th Nov 2008, OddsGuru wrote:Blinding article Ben, ignore those knockers, they´re a bunch of shockers. You capture the atmosphere in the gym very well. I´ve got an old mate who jacked his job as a painter and decorator in Bolton and flew to New York to try his hand at becoming a pro. Kevin Rooney in Catskill was so impressed with his attitude he decided to give him a pop but it didnt work out.
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Comment number 17.
At 7th Nov 2008, Gwilymb wrote:Great article as usual Ben. Interesting to hear about the decline of boxing in a city with such great boxing heritage.
callcentremunkey - You are the sort of person that hates curries, yet insists on giong to the local Indian, just so you can complain about it being the worst food ever made.
Calzaghe on points or a late stopage (I hope).
P.S. Ben, say hi to Will when you see him.....
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Comment number 18.
At 8th Nov 2008, spieretti wrote:Interesting piece about training - but by any chance does anyone know if RJJ has been drug-tested yet?
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