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The modern pro surfer has a strict dietary and exercise regime with many of the top guys doing yoga religiously to remain subtle to help them avoid injuries and torn muscles.

Paddle Power

Besides actually catching and riding waves, around 90% of surfing is ! You have to be stubborn, dig deep and don't give up. Mark a spot on the horizon and go for it. If you come off the board get straight back on and continue paddling. Bit like life really!!

Don't allow yourself to be beaten back. 30 minute paddle outs are not uncommon especially in Wales on big swells! So be prepared both mentally and physically. Stamina is the key.

Commit 100% and charge every wave

Paddling into a moving wall of water (often as tall as your house) requires 100% commitment. In that split second when your body and all human instincts are screaming out "No! Don't do it!" you somehow override auto pilot, switch to manual and drop into it anyway! Sometimes you regret it, other times you have the ride of your life, but one thing's for sure - you have to have a go in order to find out.

Keep cool and remain calm

Big wave surfers will tell you that the most important thing to do when being held underwater is to relax. Tuck yourself up into a ball and relax. Focus on your breathing.

By doing this, you will conserve oxygen and prevent injuries. Once things have subsided, swim for the surface. Most people have around 2 minutes worth of air in their lungs providing they don't panic and try to fight the ocean.

Think of the worst situation you've had whilst surfing and it soon puts things into perspective, so you can deal with anything!

In bigger waves adrenalin levels need to be controlled.

You drastically reduce the odds of making a wave if you're already so pumped up full of adrenalin and fear that you simply lose control. This is where confidence and self belief are paramount.

To make a wave you have to be 100% confident. 9/10 times you will make it, even if you are paddling into the wave later than usual. There comes a point of no return with most waves. This is the moment a surfer will normally pop to his feet and make the drop before flying down the face of the wave.

If there's an element of doubt, just a fraction of a second, the rider will often be unceremoniously dumped over the falls (going over in the lip of the wave) and then be held under and thrown around underwater for a while. A board might be broken or a fin snapped off. Either way it can be an unpleasant experience. Obviously the bigger the wave, the heavier the consequences but most 'wipe-outs' are laughed off.

Observe surfing etiquette

Even though surfing is a solo sport most of the time you share the waves with other surfers so follow the surfing 'rules' and everyone will have a better surfing experience.

The main 'rule' is centred round the 'drop in'. Some waves break in both directions so a peak can be split between two surfers. Other will just break in one direction which is when the rule comes into play.

A surfer who 'drops in' on another, i.e. takes off on a wave further down, in front of the existing surfer is generally frowned upon - it's a big no no, unless it's a friend of yours.

Local knowledge

Before hitting the beach ask local surfers or surf shops about rips, tide times and so on. Every beach is different and local knowledge could mean the difference between a great surfing session and a bad one.