91热爆

Surfing Matrons

"I hate exercise - always have done - but I love to play.

In fact, I did quite a bit of sport when I was young - mainly for fun. And my favourite toy was an ancient NSU Quickly moped which I used to race around my parents' farm on.

Then I grew up and moved to London. The motorbikes stayed, but everything else stopped. I found other ways to play.

Later I came to Wales, where everyone seemed to love walking and mountains. I just didn't get it. I mean, if God had intended us to walk, he wouldn't have shown someone how to make engines! And I met my partner Manon who hates motorbikes and loves walking up mountains. Oh dear!

So we tried to find things that we both liked - fun things where I didn't notice I was getting tired. To be honest, I'm a real couch potato, but actually I remembered that I quite like this sort of thing.

So now we rock-climb - as long as we can drive to the bottom of the cliff - and we kayak... and then there's the surfing.

We're a bunch of middle-aged women who meet regularly on Borth beach to surf. We've joked about being "surf chicks" and "babes", but know that really, we're "Surf Matrons". I'm not very good, but I really don't care.

Some people do sport to get fit; to compete. I don't. I love the craic - the meeting up, the ridiculous kit and the bizarre ritual of getting in and out of it. I love the fact that we're doing something that people of our age and gender aren't supposed to.

I hate exercise - I always have done - but I never want to forget how to play."

Please tell us a little about yourself.
I grew up on a farm in Devon, then moved to London to study Ceramics and Photography. I spent 12 very happy years there before moving to Wales in 1992 to take up my current post, Education Officer for the Visual Arts at Aberystwyth Arts Centre. I live right in front of the sea which I love, and enjoy motorbiking, kayaking and surfing.

What's your story about?
A couple of things really. It started off being about a group of friends - all women - who have recently taken up surfing, but really it's about the compromises you make to be with someone you care for.

Why did you choose to tell this particular story?
Partly because I thought you'd choose it and I really wanted to take part in the project! But also, I think we're quite funny. Most people think of surfing as a really "cool" sport, and quite male. Then we turn up - a group of women, heading towards middle-age, and we have a great time! I've even got a campervan - the "must have" surfing accessory - but of course, it should be a classic VW, whilst mine is much loved, but quite obviously very naff.

What did you find most rewarding about the workshop?
It was all great really. I liked the way it made you think about your life - both the present and the past. I was really impressed with the staff - they were incredibly helpful and made everything such fun, but still managed to keep everyone on a pretty tight schedule to produce their story. I also really enjoyed hearing other people's stories - some were incredibly moving, and it felt a privilege to be part of that.