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Crab apple jelly

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Crab apple jelly

Crab apples fall into two camps – the native British ones that are found in country hedgerows and the pretty little ornamental ones that are often found in gardens and parks. Both mature in the autumn and their high pectin content means they are brilliant for making the most stunning pink jelly.

For this recipe you will need 4–5 sterlised jam jars (about 200ml/7fl oz each), refer to the Recipe Tips to learn how to sterilise jam jars.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Rinse the crab apples in cold water, removing any stalks or damaged bits. Rough chop or pulse a few times in a food processor. Place the apples in a large saucepan with the cloves and 1.25 litres/2 pints water. Cover and bring to a simmer for 30–45 minutes, or until the apples are completely soft. The slower the cook, the better the colour and flavour will be. Remove from the heat.

  2. Strain the mixture through a jelly bag or muslin-lined sieve set over a large bowl – press lightly on the surface to push the juice through but do not press the fruit fibres through. Leave to strain for several hours or overnight if possible.

  3. Measure the crab apple stock (it will be approximately 1 litre/1¾ pints). For every litre, measure out 600g/1lb 5oz granulated sugar. Pour the stock into a clean, large saucepan or preserving pan and bring to a simmer. Add the sugar, a third at a time, and stir until dissolved. Increase the heat and bring to a rapid boil for 7–8 minutes or until the setting point is reached (see Recipe Tips, below). Remove from the heat.

  4. Leave to rest for several minutes and then tip into a jug with a good pouring lip. If a skin has formed, carefully skim off with a slotted spoon or jam skimmer. Tap the jug lightly on the work surface to knock out any air bubbles. Pour into the sterilised jars and seal immediately with the lids. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Recipe Tips

The setting point gel test is traditionally known as the ‘wrinkle’ test, but I prefer to call it the gel test because at this point it should look like a light gel, rather than a strong wrinkle. Remember jam should set in the jar and not in the pan! You will know when the jam or jelly is nearly ready because the loose, light-coloured bubbles on the surface will have almost disappeared to reveal a glossy surface, and the boil will be slower and more rhythmic. When it gets to this stage, remove the pan from the heat – the preserve will continue to cook so it is important to do this – and drop a little of the hot preserve on to a cold plate or stainless steel spoon. Leave to one side or pop in the fridge for a minute or so to cool. Lightly push with a finger to see if the jam comes together in a gel that holds its shape and is not too runny. Any gel should be light, delicate and not too sticky. If the mixture remains runny, return the pan to the heat for a couple more minutes and then test again.

By the time crab apples are ready to pick in the autumn, most garden herbs will be dying back and their stems fairly woody. However, the stalks and leaves will still have a great aroma and are perfect to add flavour to crab apple jellies. A variation on this crab apple jelly recipe is herb crab apple jelly – simply exchange the cloves for 50–100g/1¾–3½oz mint, sage, rosemary, thyme, basil or lavender sprigs, leaves or stems and 100ml/3½fl oz cider vinegar or white wine vinegar. Add the herbs at the same time as the 1.25 litres/2 pints water (instead of the cloves) and add the vinegar at the same time as you add the crab apple stock to the saucepan.

Crab apple jelly is delicious when served with cheese or cold meats, spread on toast, folded into pancakes or added to gravies, casseroles and game dishes to bring a delightful piquancy.

To sterilise the jars and lids, put them through a hot (at least 60C) dishwasher cycle. Do not dry them with a tea towel, leave them to air dry. Alternatively, preheat the oven to 140C/120C Fan/Gas 1. Wash the jars and lids in hot soapy water and place them upside-down in the oven for 15 minutes.